Wine & Whale’s

By James McIntosh

Before I go any further, I have a confession to make. I love wine. There are few things that can compare with the anticipation of tasting a new wine and the satisfaction that comes with not being disappointed! There is no other beverage in the world that is born of such passion and commitment as wine and there is no other beverage that evokes as much discussion and intrigue.

South Africa punches well above its weight in terms of producing quality wines. South Africa ranks 10th globally with approx. 3,4% of total wine production. However, the quality of wines produced in South Africa has not gone unnoticed by wine lovers around the world and this has translated to an increase in wine related tourism. There are many distinct wine districts in South Africa that are well known around the globe; think Stellenbosch for its big bold Reds and its mix of historic estates and contemporary wineries. Or Franschoek, with its distinctive French character and its position as the culinary capital of the Cape. But my favourite wine district is to found in the Walker Bay area which includes the wards of Bot River and Hemel-en-Aarde Valley.

Whilst this district might not receive the attention of the aforementioned districts of Stellenbosch and Franschoek, the quality of wines produced here is staggering. The R320 traverses approximately 35 km of the beautiful Hemel-en- Aarde (translates to Heaven and Earth) valley which is home to magnificent vineyards, fruit and berry farm’s and well respected Stud farms. The beautiful Babylonstoren Mountain range separates the wards of Bot River and Hemel-En-Aarde but it is the wine and the characters that make it that bring vibrancy to this already blessed landscape.

The area is renowned for its cool maritime climate which is influenced by its proximity to Walker Bay and the vineyards benefit from the persistent, cooling winds from the nearby ocean. The Hemel-en-Aarde Valley is best known for its quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and the Bot River for its Chenin Blanc, Shiraz and other Rhone varietals which all thrive in these cool growing conditions. But location alone does not translate to quality wines, it is the passion and focus of some relatively young winemakers that are consistently pushing the bar higher in producing small batches of high quality grapes. Varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Cab Franc, Mourvedre and Albarino are thriving under the watchful eyes of winemakers at estates such as Newton Johnson, Restless River, Luddite, Ataraxia, Beaumont, Gabrielskloof and Creation. Many Winemakers will welcome you into their home to share their passion and vision for this most noble beverage.

Niels & Penny Verburg of Luddite Wines host an annual Boulle day on the 2nd of January each year. Guests are made up largely of local winemakers and friends from the surrounding area. Whilst the Boulle tournament is a competitive affair, the quality of wines that are brought to share are probably the highlight of the day and their quality is matched equally by the enthusiasm in which they are consumed!

Wine is not the only reason to visit Walker Bay. The area is already world renown for the incredible spectacle of Southern Right and Humpback Whales that frolic close to the shores of Hermanus Village from July to December each year. The whales migrate to this region to mate and calve and the nutrient rich, shallow waters of Walker Bay is the perfect place for the calves to develop before the long journey South again. It is not only whales that draw visitors seeking to explore the marine diversity of the area. Colloquially known as the “Marine Big 5”, the area also hosts some of the best Great White Shark spotting in the world as well as huge pods of Bottlenose Dolphins, massive colonies of Cape Fur Seals and African Penguins. Land based activities can also include nature walks in the nearby Grootbos Reserve which is home to over 800 plant species, 1000 year old Milkwood Forests and over 20 mammal species.

Some time ago I was fortunate to have arranged a birthday trip to South Africa for a Singaporean businessman celebrating his 70th birthday with a small group of friends. Their final day included a helicopter trip to Hermanus with whale watching followed by lunch on the lawns of Restless River wine estate. After lunch with the group sprawled on the lawn facing the magnificent Babylonstoren Mountain, my guest informed me that this day was indeed the highlight of his 14 day journey in South Africa.