Migration Crossings

By Stuart Levine

Described by many in countless articles and wildlife documentaries as “The Greatest Show on Earth”, the annual wildebeest migration of the Serengeti and Maasai Mara Eco-System is an experience to behold for so many reasons. Although the herds are fairly passive and slow moving for most of the year, the most dramatic of events occurs when these massive herds move north in the direction of Northern Tanzania toward Kenya and are faced with the daunting task of crossing the murky waters of the Mara River in search of the new pastures on the plains on the opposite side. The large herds will accumulate along the banks for hours on end deciding on the most appropriate crossing points, and it can never be determined who will make the final decision to jump or attempt the often fateful leap from a steep bank into the waters below.

It is hard to explain the mixed emotions I felt when seeing for the first time how harsh nature can sometimes be. It seemed crazy that the herds would select such challenging and dangerous pathways down to the river; many jumping from over three to four meters to the water’s edge, for many this would prove to be their last. Whether it was the sheer will of instinct to survive or just the mass frenzy, my first crossing experience ever witnessed will certainly stay with me forever.

The game viewers all gather away from the vast herds and watch at a distance from both sides of the river to get the best possible photographic advantage, mostly hanging back so as not to interfere with any potential entry and exit points. Once one or two of the herd make a decision to go, they are generally followed by a frantic surge from the masses. Tragically, and in the frenzy to cross, many will be knocked down and sustain injuries and broken limbs, and for some of those, an unfortunate end awaits. Lying in wait in the dark waters is the ultimate water predator, the Nile crocodile, an uncompromising hunter who will maximize every opportunity to feed in this time of plenty. The crocodile’s incredible senses enable them to pick up on the vibrations of the thunderous hooves long before the herds near the water’s edge, and they make their way in their dozens to these crossing points.

The injured wildebeest will make for easy prey, and they are dragged down under water to be consumed at a later time. When the first Mara River crossings begin (normally in late July, early August) is when the crocodiles are hungriest and are their most aggressive, creating scenes of absolute chaos in the water.

Crossings generally occur back and forth along the river from mid to late July, through late September and into October (rain and grass availability determines migratory patterns), when the herds finally begin their long trek back toward their calving grounds in the southern Serengeti National Park.

The best times to see the migration (in my opinion) would be in the Western Corridor of the Serengeti National Park from late May, June and July, along the Mara River from mid to late July, August, September and October and then down in the southern Serengeti National Park from late December, January, February and early March. As I mentioned earlier, everything centers on rainfall, with this eco-system having a split season, the long rains traditionally in March and April and the short rains in November and most of December.

This experience is certainly not for the faint hearted and parents would very much need to make the call on the suitability for their children, but when asked if it should be on the bucket list of sightings to witness, well then my answer would be a very definite “absolutely”!